• Bring a large pot of heavily salted water to a rolling boil. Cook pasta 1-2 minutes less than package directions for al dente. Drain toss with a tiny splash of neutral oil, and set aside.
• In a heavy saucepan over medium heat melt the butter. Add minced shallot and cook until translucent, 2-3 minutes. Add flour and whisk constantly for 2 minutes until nutty but still pale.
• Slowly whisk in the warm milk then the heavy cream. Bring to a gentle simmer and cook 3-4 minutes until it coats the back of a spoon. Season with nutmeg, smoked paprika, Dijon, salt, and white pepper. Remove from heat.
• Add the grated cheeses except the reserved 2 ounces in handfuls, whisking until fully melted and silky. Stir in the fermented vinegar. Taste and adjust seasoning. If too thick, add a splash of warm milk. Fold in the drained pasta.
• For stovetop: heat gently 1-2 minutes to combine. For baked: transfer to a shallow baking dish or individual skillets.
• Mix panko melted butter, reserved Gouda, thyme or lemon zest, and flaky salt. Sprinkle evenly over the top. Broil or bake at 425°F for 6-8 minutes until golden with some charred edges.
• Serve immediately in warm bowls. Finish with cracked black pepper and a little extra grated Gouda if desired.

For the topping

• ½ cup panko breadcrumbs
• 1 tablespoon melted butter
• Reserved 2 ounces aged Gouda finely grated
• 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or lemon zest
• Pinch of flaky salt